This is a step by step guide on replacing the valve cover gasket on Subaru flat four engines. This guide will work for most Subaru turbo cars 02-07+ and most other naturally aspirated Subaru cars.
1.) Jack your car up and drain the oil. Remember to put the car on jack stands. You don’t want the car dropping on you.A lot of people do this job with the oil still in the pan, but its better to rather play it safe and drain the oil completely.
4.) After removing all that, you should see this a total of 8 outer bolts and the 2 inner which holds the spark plug coils.
Valve cover gasket: In the center are the two coil packs that need to be removed.
5.) Unscrew them and label them. You don’t want the bolts going into the wrong place. It was a very hard to get any decent clearance so take your time.
ATF Power Steering Fluid Replacement Subaru STi/WRX:
This is a step by step guide in replacing the ATF power steering fluid on your Subaru STi/WRX. This is pretty much a two person job unless you have a suction gun. I like to use Mobil 1 ATF Synthetic fluid.
ATF Power Steering Fluid Replacement Subaru STi/WRX: A how to guide on replacing the power steering fluid on a Subaru WRX/STi.
3.) Raise the car up (use jack stands “Safety first”), not to high. A person must sit in the car while another person fills the power steering reservoir.
4.) Under the car – Remove the Plastic engine cover under the car, using the 12 mm socket (5 bolts) and flat tip screw driver (4 clips).
5.) Remove the center jack plate, using 14 mm socket (4 nuts), and 12mm socket and 12 mm wrench (2 rear bolts & 2 front nuts/bolts).
6.) Place a oil pan under the power steering gear box (just above jack plate location).
7.) Using the pliers slide one of the clips off the rubber hose (pipe joint) on the power steering gear box. Fluid will drain out immediately, so have that pan already in place under the hose.
8.) Slowly pour in some ATF into the reservoir, while another person sits in the car and SLOWLY turns the steering wheels from lock to lock – perform this at least 3 times. Watch the fluid in the reservoir so that it doesn’t drain out, and watch under the car to see when the old fluid is flushed out. The OEM fluid was brown and I used Mobile 1 ATF Synthetic which was red, so I could see when all the old fluid was flushed.
9.) Re-attach rubber hose (pipe joint) and slide the clip back into place. Put jack plate back on and put plastic undercover back on.
10.) Pour in ATF to the MAX cold line on the reservoir and be ready to add more when the person turns the steering wheel.
11.) Slowly turn the steering wheel lock to lock (3x or more) and watch the reservoir until bubbles stop appearing. Add ATF as needed! DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR GET TOO LOW!!! This will suck more air into the system.
12.) Start the car and Slowly turn the steering wheel lock to lock (3x or more) and watch the reservoir until bubbles stop appearing. Add ATF as needed.
13.) Lower car onto the ground. Slowly turn the steering wheel lock to lock (3x or more) and watch the reservoir until bubbles stop appearing. Add ATF as needed.
14.) “In case the following happens, leave it about a half an hour and then do” STEP 11 to STEP 13 again:
a. Fluid level changes over 3 mm (0.12 in)
b. Bubbles remain on the upper surface of the fluid
c. Grinding noise is generated from power steering pump.
15.) Replace power steering cap and reinstall the intake scoop.
Now enjoy your smoother steering with your brand new ATF on your Subaru WRX/STi!
Don’t forget to tighten down your intake manifold bolts down to the correct torque values.
Intake manifold Subaru STi: Make sure to tighten down the bolts.
Otherwise you’ll end up with a broken sounding engine like this:
Luckily forgetting to tighten down the intake manifold bolts didn’t cause any permanent damage, but I wouldn’t go driving around like this either.
If you do TGV deletes like in this post. Make sure to use new intake gaskets where the TGV’s and the intake manifold meet up. What’s even more important is to make sure you tighten down those intake manifold bolts that hold the intake manifold to the TGV’s.
This is a step by step guide on removing and re-installing a oil pan on your Subaru Impreza STi or WRX. This guide is also useful for installing a STi spec oil pan onto your WRX. This guide also is helpful if you are removing your stock oil pickup tube that is known to crack on the STi. I suggest purchasing a Killer B Motorsport Pickup Tube along with a brand new STi oil pan. Both can be purchased from down below from Amazon.
1) Remove the plastic under tray from your engine. This is secured using a few bolts and plastic push clips.
2) Remove the plastic under trays from either side of the car, the long ones.
Oil pan removal and install: Remove plastic to gain access to the bottom of the engine.
3) Remove the jacking plate. This is held on by 2 12mm bolts with nuts in the front, 2 12mm bolts in the rear and 4 14mm nuts on the sides.
4) Remove your subframe. This is secured by a few 19mm bolts, 2 12mm bolts in front and 4 14mm bolts. I highly recommend soaking these all in your PB blaster and waiting 5 minutes. Check out some of my other posts for instuctions.
5) Remove the front oxygen sensor. The correct way is to unplug the clip, unhook it from the metal mount and then pull the wire through the fender-well so that the wire isn’t being stretched and twisted as you unscrew it.
The brake master cylinder is located by the driver’s side strut tower and once you find it the rest is pretty self explanatory. I have a 2005 Subaru STi. Some later years might be slightly different.
Tools needed:
10 mm socket and wrenches
Zip tie (optional)
Master Cylinder Brace: A installed Cusco master cylinder brace.
1.) Find the brake master cylinder located just inboard of the drivers side strut tower. The washer fluid bottle will be in the way so unbolt the two bolts and lean it forward, no need to disconnect it altogether.
2.) There are two brackets bolted to the strut tower visible in this picture. These are the two holes used to mount the brace. Unbolt these two holes.
Master Cylinder Brace: There are two brackets bolted to the strut tower visible in this picture.
3.)The lower bracket is not compatible with the master cylinder brace. Its best to remove the bracket, then zip tie the lines to the master cylinder brace at the end to keep them secure.
4.)The next bolt to take out is difficult to get a picture of but you will see it easily you can barely see it here, it is located slightly farther towards the back of the car, undo it as well.
Master Cylinder Brace: The hidden bolt is located slightly farther towards the back of the car, undo it as well.
1.) Locate and remove the three 10 mm Gold colored bolts that secure the black vacuum lines to the bottom of the intercooler. You will need a shallow socket as it gets tight around the BOV. Careful not to drop them into the engine bay, it will be a PITA to find and retrieve them.
2.) Locate and remove the two 12 mm bolts that secure the recirculating BOV to the bottom of the intercooler. Again be careful not to drop these into the engine bay as it’s a jungle down there and it will be a PITA to retrieve them.
3.) Locate and remove the two 12 mm bolts that secure the intercooler to the engine. These are located one on each side of the intercooler.
4.) Now the intercooler is only held in place by the rubber intake hoses with the clamps. The one that is on top, from the intercooler to the throttle body/intake manifold is easier so do them first. Using the Flat head screw driver or an 8 mm socket loosen the clamps holding the intake piping to the Intake manifold and intercooler. And leave it for now.
5.) This is a little tough to do, but its not impossible. You should be able to do it even if you have large hands. Using the flat head or 8 mm socket, loosen the clamp that holds the intake tube coming from the cold side of the turbo to the intercooler. This is located underneath the intercooler.
If you’ve never changed oil on a 04-07 WRX STi this guide will take your step by step through the oil change process. This guide should be applicable to most turbocharged Subaru cars throughout the years. Check at the end of the post for part numbers, oil, filters and tools needed to complete an oil change.
Oil Change: The legendary oil filter subaru ring of fire.
1.) Get you car on a hard, even, flat surface and get your car up on jack stands. I put mine up on 4 jack stands, so that later on when you are draining the oil, the car is already level and will drain properly.
Where to jack and put jack stands has been debated many times before.
2.) Once you get your car up on 4 jack stands, it is time to remove the brush guard. There are 5 bolts to remove and they are all 12mm.
3.) Now that you got your brush guard off its time to get under the car and start your oil change. You should take a second and locate the oil filter and the oil drain plug.
4.) If your engine is cool, go ahead and start it up and let it run for about 5 minutes. This helps with the oil change. The oil gets warm and drains much easier and quicker.
This is a basic brake pad removal and install walk through with a Subaru Impreza WRX. Make sure to go slowly to ensure you don’t introduce air into the brake system.
1.)Loosen your lug nuts for the corner you are working on, jack the vehicle up and put it on a jack stand, then remove the wheel.
Brake pad: A Subaru Impreza WRX stock brake caliper.
2.)You now need to dislocate the caliper. There are two 14mm bolts that need to be removed: A lower one, and an upper one. Once removed you can wiggle the caliper back off the rotor, and lay it up on top of the rotor next to the strut. At this point, DO NOT let anyone touch the brake pedal.
3.) At this point you can pull the pads free. I just carefully wedged my finger between the rotor and the pad to lever them free. They locate/remove in a manner perpendicular to the axis of the rotor. There are two of them on each side; remove them both. You will note that the inside pad has a metal ‘clip’ attached to it. The purpose of this is actually to rub against the rotor when the pad material is getting worn low; thus creating the horrid metallic squeal that will remind you your brakes need attention.
4.) Organize the new parts. There are two pads, each with one plastic-coated plate, and one shiny metallic plate, and one metal clip. Subaru also provide some brake grease for you.
5.) Remove the old clips by just dislodging them with your fingers.
6.) Put the new clips located in the position of where the old clips went.
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