The 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STI has a heritage of power and control. Previous models have been the foundations for countless racing victories and championships. The new WRX STI promises the same with it’s 305- horsepower, turbocharged, intercooled Boxer engine and a six-speed manual transmission.
Power and control incorporate enchanced technology. As suggested by new switchgear on the dashboard and center console and my markings within the instrument cluster’s center-mounted tachometer, a driver has some things to learn before wringing out the most from the car.
Today’s electronics now allow the driver to tinker with engine response characteristics, the manner in which All-Wheel-Drive system fights for traction, and the degree to which braking and engine management help maintain vehicle stability. These capabilities are made possible by standard Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC), Driver Controlled Center Differential (DCCD), and Subaru Intelligent Drive (SI-Drive).
This is a step by step guide on how to do a brake fluid flush on most Subaru cars. It’s often a good idea to do a brake fluid flush at least once a year to keep your Subaru’s braking system in good condition. This is even more important if you autocross or do track days with your car. Use a good performance brake fluid and not whatever is cheapest at Autozone. I have a strong preference towards ATE and Motul brake fluid. Good fluid combined with good brake pads like a Hawks or Carbotechs will give your Subaru great stopping power.
1.) Either jack-up the vehicle and place a rigid rack under it, or lift-up the vehicle.
2.) Remove all the wheels.
3.) Drain the brake fluid from master cylinder.
4.) Refill the reservoir tank with recommended brake fluid.
• Avoid mixing different brands of brake fluid to prevent degrading the quality of fluid.
• Be careful not to allow dirt or dust to get into the reservoir tank.
Air bleeding sequence (1) → (2) → (3) → (4)
5.) Install one end of a vinyl tube onto the air bleeder and insert the other end of the tube into a container to collect the brake fluid.
• Cover the bleeder with cloth, when loosening it, to prevent brake fluid from being splashed over surrounding parts.
• During the bleeding operation, keep the brake reservoir tank filled with brake fluid to eliminate entry of air.
• The brake pedal operation must be very slow.
• For convenience and safety, two people should do the work.
• The amount of brake fluid required is approx. 500
m2 (16.9 US fl oz, 17.6 Imp fl oz) for total brake
6.) Have a friend depress the brake pedal slowly two or three times and then hold it depressed.
A step by step guide to rebuilding a Brembo caliper with rebuild kits. This guide includes separating the calipers as well if you want to go that route:
1.) If you have not yet removed calipers from the car remove them, I cleaned mine prior to starting. You will need to disconnect the brake lines and unbolt them from the hub. Also remove the pads, to remove the pads there are 2 pull pin clips thru a set of long pins. The pins hold the pad and metal bracket in place. Remove the 2 pull pins and slide out the 2 longer pins and everything will fall out. Keep in mind there are small plates on the back sides of the brake pads where the pistons hit the pad, these can be easily lost and are marked with arrows for direction.
2.) You then need to split the calipers apart, to do this I used a impact wrench but if you have some good strength it is possible to break the bolts. Pretty sure the bolts on the front are a 13mm and the rears use a allen wrench style bolt which i believe is a size 6.
3.) You will want to pop the pistons out. In order to do this I used, for the rear a inch by 5 inch block of wood, for the front you will need a little thicker of a block. Place the block where the rotor would sit so that the piston doesn’t shoot out and kill someone. (trust me these things will FLY) After doing this i made sure my bolts were very lightly tightened into place, I did this because if you leave the gap the pistons will put force in the way of least resistance which basically means its going to shoot the caliper apart and split it which could cause some pain.
4.) After splitting the calipers and popping the pistons I removed the rubber seal between the 2 pieces as it is small and could very easily be lost. Don’t remove the o-ring prior to step 3 or step 3 is pretty much impossible.
Second generation (2001 – 2007)
Second generation (GDB-F)
Body style(s) 4-door sedan
4-door station wagon
Engine(s) 2.0L H4 2.5L H4
Transmission(s) 6-speed manual
Wheelbase 2004-05: 100.0 in (2540 mm)
2006-08: 99.4 in (2525 mm)
Length 2004-05: 173.8 in (4415 mm)
2006-08: 175.8 in (4465 mm)
Width 68.5 in (1740 mm)
Height 56.3 in (1430 mm)
Curb weight 3,296 lb (1,495 kg)
Related Subaru Impreza Subaru Forester Subaru Impreza WRX
In 2001, the Impreza line received a complete update. The chassis was stiffened so that it had 120% torsional stiffness increase. The WRX STi gained 17″ x 7.5″ alloy wheels over the previous 16″ x 7″ wheels. The 5 speed manual transmission (reputed to be one of the car’s weakpoints) was changed to an STi engineered 6 speed manual transmission. The engine was retained from the Version 6 STi and still retains the semi-closed deck block and is still labeled as the EJ207, However, the turbochargers are IHI models. The interior was updated with a STi logo on the gauge. The STi’s tachometer also has a red shift light. The STi’s and optioned Type RA STi have received Brembo 4 piston front and 2 piston rear brakes while the bare-bones Type RA STi still carried the Subaru 4 piston front and 2 piston rear brakes. Externally, the STis had larger hood scoops and had foglight covers with STi embossed on them. The DCCD was updated so it can work with anti-lock brakes. During braking, when the ABS is on, the DCCD will set itself to open-mode (no locking).
The version nomenclature was dropped from the name. Japanese and other auto-enthusiasts often refer to the chassis as GDB/GDF (the STi has a ‘B’ or ‘F'(for USDM models) where as the regular WRX had an ‘A’). The fourth character of the VIN gives the revision (A to F where G is the 2007 version).
For quick and easy reference to the different exteriors, Subaru Impreza owners use nicknames based on the headlights. Each relates to a creature that has similar looking eyes: 2002-2003 are ‘bug eyes’ / 2004-2005 are ‘Tear Drop’ or ‘blob eyes’ / 2006-2007 are ‘hawk eyes’.
I’ll spare you the long sting off comments after this got posted. Basically people were telling the poster that he can do it himself(which is true) and that buying a whole new brembo caliper would be a massive waste of money.
You can go to any machine shop and they will happily take care of the snapped bleeder screw for $20 or a case of beer and you can be sure that your expensive Sti brembo calipers aren’t going to be ruined. Well besides you fucking them up yourself.
Now let’s look at the picture of the rear Brembo the OP posted. Hmmm doesn’t that brake rotor look a little small? (The answer is yes.) Always double check part numbers even when you are buying from the OEM/Subaru. Triple check whenever you buy from an aftermarket supplier. It’s very easy to get a WRX sized brake rotor instead of the correct STi Brembo sized brake rotor.