Banjo Bolt (Union) removal and install on a Subaru WRX STi:
This is Banjo Bolt step by step guide on the removal and installation of a Banjo bolt and new copper washers for a Subaru WRX/STi or any other turbocharged Subaru.The Banjo bolt is the one with a filter screen that others have indicated should be cleaned or replaced periodically. Subaru calls it a “Union screw (with protrusion).”
Tools needed:
12 mm socket – for intercooler bracket bolt
14 mm deep-well socket – for up-pipe bracket nut and bolt
10 mm socket or wrench – for stock turbo heat shield bolt
17 mm ratcheting wrench – for Banjo bolt
10 inch or longer extension – to reach up-pipe bracket bolts
Start by removing any heat shields that are in the way. I have the SPT heat shield that comes off by removing the 12 mm intercooler support bolt.
(See pic “Engine bay area”). I also have the stock turbo heat shield installed. I didn’t take it off, but there will be a little more room to work if you do. A 10 mm socket is needed to remove the stock heat shield bolts.
The next page will describe the removal and re-installation process of the Banjo Bolt and copper washers.
Deatschwerks injectors install on a Subaru STi w/ a FMIC:
We put together this DIY since there are some more specifics when working with the Deatschwerks injectors on a 2006 STI with a FMIC. YMMV and as with all DIY’s, you do this at your own risk. I will not be responsible for any damage you incur doing this yourself. (but seriously, it really wasn’t ‘that’ hard.)
Optional (nice to haves) – Magnetic Tray (to keep from losing bolts/screws/etc) – “Antenna” Magnet (to get ‘dropped’ bolts/screws/etc) – rags for cleaning up spilled anti-freeze
1. Let the car sit overnight or relieve the fuel pressure by unplugging the fuel pump (green plug in upper right area of passenger footwell). (NOTE: I just let my car sit overnight)
Deatschwerks injectors:
2. Start on the driver’s side (it’s easier).
a) Remove negative battery terminal.
b) Remove the two 12mm bolts holding in the plastic bracket to the intake manifold and clip the two zip ties keeping the harness in the plastic bracket.
c) Now remove the plastic bracket (it will take a patient/creative rotation to get it out from the hoses/harnesses) and you’ll be able to clearly access the torx screws holding down the little bracket that holds down the injectors.
1.You may also want to unplug the blue connector and the Crankcase breather hose (regular clamp, not the crimped one) to provide maximum access to the injectors.
d) Unplug the injector, remove the torx screw (Proper size Torx Bit: T-25), swing the bracket up and out of the way, and pull the injector out. You will need a small screwdriver with a sharper tip to pop the injector up. Just be careful not to damage the injector seat or the injector housing / Rubber O-ring
3. Now, get one of your newly purchased Deatschwerks injectors. Open the tube of Super Grease (should be provided) and generously lube the lower O-Ring, and moderately-sparingly lube the upper O-Ring. ONLY LUBE the O-RINGs, try not to get lube on the injector screen or filters
4. Gently insert the Deatschwerks injector. You will want it to sit on the upper O-Ring, flush to the injector port. Then use the bottom of rubber mallet wooden handle to push the Deatschwerks injector in until it seats. There will be a noticeable but gentle “pop” not a sound but a “feel” once the Deatschwerks injector seats. If there is a fair amount of gas left in the injector port, it may even just slip in … no “pop” feeling.
Step 1: Once the car is up on jack stands / a lift, you want to support the transmission and remove the rear cross member. You will need to remove it later anyway, it also makes it much easier to work without it in the way. I used a bottle jack and block of wood to support the tranny, but im sure a transmission jack would work much better if you have one.
This picture shows the cross member removed.
Short shifter: This picture shows the cross member removed.
Step 2: Once the cross member is unbolted you will need to unplug the 02 sensor, and unclip its harness from the cross member. It is held by two plastic clips that can be pushed out of the holes in the member without much trouble.
Short Shifter: O2 sensor is held by two plastic clips that can be pushed out of the holes in the member without much trouble.
Step 3: Remove the bolt from the lower rod, I believe it is a 14mm. The nut on the other side is attached to the bracket, so you don’t need a wrench on it. I found that ratcheting wrenches work best for most of these bolts.
The bolt that needs to be removed is the one going through the rubber bushing shown in the upper right of this picture.
Short Shifter: The bolt that needs to be removed is the one going through the rubber bushing shown in the upper right of this picture.
Step 4: Now you can disconnect the reverse lockout cable. It is held in with a pin that can be pulled out with a pair of pliers. I stuck an Allen wrench through the cam as shown in the Cobb short shifter install when I removed it just in case. There is a washer on the lockout cable that may be stuck in the grease, you will want to take it off and set it aside so it doesn’t get lost. The lockout cable can be seen on the left side of the picture above. You can now move the lower rod down, and move the lockout cable out of the way.
This how-to is based off a GR, but the concepts should be similar to a GD. I’m not sure how different the front subframe is or how it might interfere with the install.
I’m making this as a response to so many people saying that motor mounts are a terrible install. I think they’re cake, and I want to show why. I had originally installed the Tigwerks motor mounts, but their NVH was a little much for my tastes so I went to Group Ns, and that’s where this install was born (my second time through). I’d do it again and could accomplish the whole process inside of two hours with mandatory beer breaks.
This fender brace install was performed on ’11 Subaru Impreza WRX STi 5 Door with GTSpec Fender Braces.
Required Tools:
Socket wrench with multiple extenders.
10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets
12mm wrench
Impact Driver (Not required but makes things easier)
Tire iron Floor Jack/Jack stands
Screw Driver
Pliers/Cutting pliers
2 Zip ties
Gloves (Not required but always nice to have) PB Blaster
Passenger side
I started off on the passenger side. Get the front end on jack stands. Also put chalks on the rear tires for added safety.
Now lets start by removing your tire. (This is where having an impact wrench makes things a breeze!)
*Note* I did not remove by front bumper however i did later on. I would suggest you go ahead and remove the front bumper to save yourself some time later on down the road. It makes things easier!
Now remove the 3 bolts in the engine bay and the one retaining clip on the headlight fixture.
Fender removal Subaru STi GR: Now remove the 3 bolts in the engine bay and the one retaining clip on the headlight fixture.
Remove the bolt behind the front bumper. (If the bumper is off it makes this next part very easy!)
Fender Removal Subaru STi GR: Remove the bolt behind the front bumper. (If the bumper is off it makes this next part very easy!)
Unscrew the black plastic bracket that secures the fender to the front bumper. (Again much easier to do with bumper off). I’d also suggest you remove the black bracket all together. This will come in handy when you reassemble the front fender.
There are two bolts under the side trim. This is where removing the 3rd retaining clip from under neath the side trim gives you a bit more wiggle room.
There are two bolts under the side trim. This is where removing the 3rd retaining clip from under neath the side trim gives you a bit more wiggle room.
Rear Wheel Bearing Repair 02-07 Subaru WRX/STi: This is a write up on how to replace your rear wheel bearing for your 02-07 WRX STi.
DISCLAIMER: WORKING ON YOUR CAR IS DANGEROUS. IF YOU FEEL YOU CANNOT COMPLETE ANY OF THESE TASKS, DON’T DO IT, THESE PARTS HOLD YOUR SUSPENSION AND WEIGHT OF YOUR CAR. THIS IS A REFERENCE ONLY! do not attempt.
– First you need to break the torque on your lug nuts
– Get your rear in the air and stable (your going to put some stress on some parts)
– Remove your wheel
Rear Wheel bearing: Remove your wheel and Locate your axle nut and “uncrimp” it.
Locate your axle nut and “uncrimp” it. After its uncrimped, make sure you have your parking brake on really well. Either break the torque on it and back it off so its hand tight accessible, or remove it all together.
– Locate your axle nut and “uncrimp” it – After its uncrimped, make sure you have your parking brake on realy good. – Either break the torque on it and back it off so its hand tight accessible, or remove it all together
There are two brackets at the front of the rear seat. Remove the bolts holding them in and pull out the lower seat cushion. There are three brackets holding the seat back in. Once the bolts are out you can lift the cushion off. There are brackets at the top that support the seat; make sure those clip in properly when you put it back in. Also pay attention to how the cushion fits through the seat belt.
2.) It is easiest to bust loose the 17mm strut top nuts while the car is on the ground. So that’s what we are doing here…
Once the seat is out you can get to the rear strut dust covers. You’ll want a couple of tools to get to these nuts since the access is pretty tight. A 12mm open gear wrench (pictured) is nice. Also, standard 12mm sockets in various depths will be helpful. Unless you have air tools that can fit on these, there is a lot of wrenching involved since you can only get a few degrees per turn on some of them. Strut cover removed. Note the “out” inscription, and make sure it faces “out” when you put it back on. Top of the strut showing the nut that needs to be loosened. You should be able to get on there with a 17mm deep socket and loosen it a few turns. Just bust it loose, do not remove it at this point!
This next part isn’t critical now, but you will need the info later.
In order to make sure the strut isn’t spinning in the shaft, you need to insert a 6mm hex/allen wrench
into the strut top, and hold that still while you turn the 17mm nut. This is the contraption I use.
Now to the front.
Remove the little rubber dust covers in the center of the top mounts. Again, bust the top nut loose. On the front passenger side there may be a bracket that holds an alarm chirper. It doesn’t really matter if you take the 12mm nuts off now or later, I am just including it at this point in the process. If you do loosen them now, again, make sure to keep them on at least a little bit so the struts don’t fall off later.
This procedure was performed on a MY04 STi with some modifications which may or may not be relevant for the purposes of this How-To. This procedure is only ONE way of removing the transmission and is not meant to be the be-all method. This is a DIY on your driveway process only. If you have access to a lift, this would be the preferred and safest method.
Perform this procedure AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Clutch: This procedure allows you to remove the transmission from a Subaru STI for the purpose of gaining access to the clutch and flywheel system for inspection and or replacement
This procedure allows you to remove the transmission from a Subaru STI for the purpose of gaining access to the clutch and flywheel system for inspection and or replacement.
This procedure allows you to remove the transmission without the benefit of a lift and is meant as a DIY for the weekend warrior. This is by no means a simple or easy procedure and it requires a good deal of strength. IT IS RECOMMENDED YOU HAVE A FRIEND THERE TO HELP. You will need a second pair of hands at times.
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