Category Archives: EJ257

AWD, EJ257, STi, Subaru, USDM

Brembo Caliper Rebuild Subaru STi:

Brembo Caliper Rebuild Subaru STi:

A step by step guide to rebuilding a Brembo caliper with rebuild kits. This guide includes separating the calipers as well if you want to go that route:

1.) If you have not yet removed calipers from the car remove them, I cleaned mine prior to starting. You will need to disconnect the brake lines and unbolt them from the hub. Also remove the pads, to remove the pads there are 2 pull pin clips thru a set of long pins. The pins hold the pad and metal bracket in place. Remove the 2 pull pins and slide out the 2 longer pins and everything will fall out. Keep in mind there are small plates on the back sides of the brake pads where the pistons hit the pad, these can be easily lost and are marked with arrows for direction.

2.) You then need to split the calipers apart, to do this I used a impact wrench but if you have some good strength it is possible to break the bolts. Pretty sure the bolts on the front are a 13mm and the rears use a allen wrench style bolt which i believe is a size 6.

Brembo Caliper: Separating the Brembo Calipers and getting ready for the rebuild.
Brembo Caliper: Separating the Brembo Calipers and getting ready for the rebuild.

3.) You will want to pop the pistons out. In order to do this I used, for the rear a inch by 5 inch block of wood, for the front you will need a little thicker of a block. Place the block where the rotor would sit so that the piston doesn’t shoot out and kill someone. (trust me these things will FLY) After doing this i made sure my bolts were very lightly tightened into place, I did this because if you leave the gap the pistons will put force in the way of least resistance which basically means its going to shoot the caliper apart and split it which could cause some pain.

Brembo Caliper: Pistons pushed out of the caliper.
Brembo Caliper: Pistons pushed out of the caliper.

4.)  After splitting the calipers and popping the pistons I removed the rubber seal between the 2 pieces as it is small and could very easily be lost. Don’t remove the o-ring prior to step 3 or step 3 is pretty much impossible.

Brembo Caliper: O-Ring removed.
Brembo Caliper: O-Ring removed.
Brembo Caliper: O-ring location in a brembo caliper.
Brembo Caliper: O-ring location in a brembo caliper.
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2.5RS, Ej20, EJ257, Intake, Intercooler, STi, Subaru, TMIC, Tuning, Turbo, WRX

Pitch Stop Install on Subaru WRX/STi

Pitch Stop Mount Install on Subaru WRX/STi:

This is a step by step guide on how to install an aftermarket Pitch Stop Mount to your 02-07 Subaru WRX or STi.

Pitch Stop Mount: In the foreground a oem plastic pitch mount and in the background a Perrin Performance pitch stop mount.
Pitch Stop Mount: In the foreground a oem plastic pitch mount and in the background a Perrin Performance pitch stop mount.

1.) Locate and remove the three 10 mm Gold colored bolts that secure the black vacuum lines to the bottom of the intercooler. You will need a shallow socket as it gets tight around the BOV. Careful not to drop them into the engine bay, it will be a PITA to find and retrieve them.

2.) Locate and remove the two 12 mm bolts that secure the recirculating BOV to the bottom of the intercooler. Again be careful not to drop these into the engine bay as it’s a jungle down there and it will be a PITA to retrieve them.

3.) Locate and remove the two 12 mm bolts that secure the intercooler to the engine. These are located one on each side of the intercooler.

4.) Now the intercooler is only held in place by the rubber intake hoses with the clamps. The one that is on top, from the intercooler to the throttle body/intake manifold is easier so do them first. Using the Flat head screw driver or an 8 mm socket loosen the clamps holding the intake piping to the Intake manifold and intercooler. And leave it for now.

5.) This is a little tough to do, but its not impossible. You should be able to do it even if you have large hands. Using the flat head or 8 mm socket, loosen the clamp that holds the intake tube coming from the cold side of the turbo to the intercooler. This is located underneath the intercooler.

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Ej20, EJ257, forester, Impreza, STi, Subaru, Turbo, WRX

Oil Change 04-07 Subaru WRX/STi DIY:

Oil Change 04-07 Subaru WRX/STi DIY:

If you’ve never changed oil on a 04-07 WRX STi this guide will take your step by step through the oil change process. This guide should be applicable to most turbocharged Subaru cars throughout the years. Check at the end of the post for part numbers, oil, filters and tools needed to complete an oil change.

Oil Change: The legendary oil filter subaru ring of fire.
Oil Change: The legendary oil filter subaru ring of fire.

1.) Get you car on a hard, even, flat surface and get your car up on jack stands. I put mine up on 4 jack stands, so that later on when you are draining the oil, the car is already level and will drain properly.
Where to jack and put jack stands has been debated many times before.

2.) Once you get your car up on 4 jack stands, it is time to remove the brush guard. There are 5 bolts to remove and they are all 12mm.

3.) Now that you got your brush guard off its time to get under the car and start your oil change. You should take a second and locate the oil filter and the oil drain plug.

4.) If your engine is cool, go ahead and start it up and let it run for about 5 minutes. This helps with the oil change. The oil gets warm and drains much easier and quicker.

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EJ257, Fuel Pump, Legacy, STi, Subaru, Turbo, WRX

Fuel Pump Walbro 255lph for 2008 STi/WRX/LGT Install:

Walbro Fuel Pump for 2008 -11 STi/WRX/LGT Install:

Install guide for those looking to upgrade the factory WRX, STi, or LGT fuel pump. I recently found the stock pump to be inadequate when running high boost and E85. When ordering the pump, you DO NOT need the filter kit, it WILL NOT fit in the housing. Make sure to run the car down under the 1/4 tank mark before beginning. There will be gas spillage so make sure you have plenty of fresh air and towels around to clean up.

1.) Pop the gas cap off to relieve fuel pressure from the tank. Remove your lower rear seat by pulling upwards on each side and the middle. There are 3 snap in spots. Place your seat somewhere clean and out of the way. Once you do this you can see the fuel pump access cover and harness. Unplug this harness.

2.) Remove the 4 screws holding the access cover in place and place them somewhere safe away from the access cover.

3.) Now you can see the fuel pump access point. There are 3 fuel lines, 8 8mm nuts, and the electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector now and stuff it out of the way. Grab some of your handy shop towels and place them under the fuel lines in case of spillage. Once you have removed the fuel lines it should look like this:

Fuel Pump: There are 3 fuel lines, 8 8mm nuts, and the electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector now and stuff it out of the way. Grab some of your handy shop towels and place them under the fuel lines in case of spillage.
Fuel Pump: There are 3 fuel lines, 8 8mm nuts, and the electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector now and stuff it out of the way. Grab some of your handy shop towels and place them under the fuel lines in case of spillage.

4.) Remove all 8 of the 8mm nuts and place them somewhere safe. Gently remove the metal bracket surrounding the entire assembly to gain access to the housing and place it somewhere safe. Slowly remove the fuel pump assembly by contorting it, be careful not to damage the float or sensor. Once the housing is removed it may spill, make sure you have plenty of towels laid down in your car. If all went well it should look like this:

Fuel Pump: Gently remove the metal bracket surrounding the entire assembly to gain access to the housing and place it somewhere safe. Slowly remove the fuel pump assembly by contorting it, be careful not to damage the float or sensor.
Fuel Pump: Gently remove the metal bracket surrounding the entire assembly to gain access to the housing and place it somewhere safe. Slowly remove the fuel pump assembly by contorting it, be careful not to damage the float or sensor.
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Ej20, EJ257, exhaust, Turbo, USDM, WRX

Turboback Exhaust Install on 02-07 Subaru WRX:

Turboback Exhaust Install on 02-07 Subaru WRX:

Bone stock the WRX is one of the best performing entry level sports cars you can find, but there’s always room for improvement. Replacing the stock 2.25″ turboback exhaust and it’s 2 catalytic converters with a 3″ turboback exhaust, featuring one high flow cat, should allow the turbo to spool up easier and quicker for more low end grunt.

1.) Remove the heatshield. You’ll be amazed at the amount of bolts used to hold on this simple piece of metal. There are 5 on the left side (viewing from the front of the car), one on the back, and two on the right side. After you have all the bolts removed you’re going to need some keen geometry skills to get the heat shield out of the engine bay but once you do, the downpipe to turbo connection is easily available. Once the downpipe is exposed look for the bottom heatshield. It connects to the downpipe by one bolt.

2.) Loosen the downpipe. There are only 5 bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo. They are surprisingly easy to get to. Now would also be a good time to remove the O2 sensor from the Downpipe.

3.) Disconnect the remaining hangers. It’s a good idea to use photos of the exhaust out of the car in order to point out where the hangers are in relation to the whole system. Install the new downpipe by lining up the turbo/downpipe bolts then securing the hangers. There are 2 hangers for the downpipe shown here. The front one bolts into the transmission. The second rests on a J bracket and is screwed in.

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Ej20, EJ257, STi, Subaru, TMIC, Turbo, WRX

O2 Sensor replacement on 02-07 Subaru WRX/STi:

O2 Sensor replacement on 02-07 Subaru WRX/STi:

This is a guide to replace your front 02 sensor in your 02-07 Subaru WRX/STi. This guide will go step by step through the process.

Denso 234-9120 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor)

O2 sensor location in the exhaust manifold.
O2 sensor location in the exhaust manifold.

1.) The first thing you need to do is place the jack under your car. I chose to use the pinch weld under the passenger’s door area. Next you will want to remove the wheel from the car so you will have better access to the O2 sensor. I did this by using a 19mm socket with an extension.

2.) Upon removing the wheel, you should notice a small plastic flap with a few plastic retaining screws holding it in place. I have circled them in red in the picture below.

3.) You are going to want to remove these using flat head and phillips head screw drivers. Take care in making sure you do your best to not strip them out. If you do, you will end up having to either pry them out or pull them out with a set of pliers. If you need to replace any of these, you can usually find them at any autoparts store.

4.) Once you have all of the plastic screws pulled out, remove the plastic cover.

5.) If you pull the remaining plastic cover to the right, you will be able to see the O2 sensor. You can opt to remove the larger of the plastic fender well shields, but I did not see much point in doing so as it would not really yield much more room for access.

6.) With the O2 sensor exposed, you will want to spray it with some lubricant and my preferred lubricant is PB Blaster. With that now soaking in a bit, you are now going to want to go and pop your hood to gain access to the plug end of the sensor.

7.) Looking at your engine bay, you will want to move to the left side (passenger side). Underneath this cover are two connections, the top one is for your front O2 sensor. Go ahead and disconnect that plug.

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Ej20, EJ257, Intercooler, STi, TMIC, Turbo, USDM, WRX

Banjo Bolt (Union) removal/install on a Subaru WRX STi

Banjo Bolt (Union) removal and install on a Subaru WRX STi:

This is Banjo Bolt step by step guide on the removal and installation of a Banjo bolt and new copper washers for a Subaru WRX/STi or any other turbocharged Subaru.The Banjo bolt is the one with a filter screen that others have indicated should be cleaned or replaced periodically. Subaru calls it a “Union screw (with protrusion).”
Tools needed:
12 mm socket – for intercooler bracket bolt
14 mm deep-well socket – for up-pipe bracket nut and bolt
10 mm socket or wrench – for stock turbo heat shield bolt
17 mm ratcheting wrench – for Banjo bolt
10 inch or longer extension – to reach up-pipe bracket bolts

Parts needed:
Union screw/Banjo Bolt (If replacing which I highly suggest you do.) – Subaru part # 14445AA090

Subaru 14445AA090 Oil Filter Bolt

OR

Genuine Subaru Turbo Banjo Bolt with Screen – 14445AA090a
Copper washers (2) – Subaru part # 803912040
Subaru 803912040 Banjo Washer

 

Removal and re-install takes about one hour.

Start by removing any heat shields that are in the way. I have the SPT heat shield that comes off by removing the 12 mm intercooler support bolt.
(See pic “Engine bay area”). I also have the stock turbo heat shield installed. I didn’t take it off, but there will be a little more room to work if you do. A 10 mm socket is needed to remove the stock heat shield bolts.

The next page will describe the removal and re-installation process of the Banjo Bolt and copper washers.

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Ej20, EJ257, Subaru, TMIC, Transmission, Turbo, WRX

Motor Mount install for Subaru Impreza WRX/STi

Motor Mount install for Subaru Impreza WRX/STi:

This how-to is based off a GR, but the concepts should be similar to a GD. I’m not sure how different the front subframe is or how it might interfere with the install.

Here is a selection of stiffer motor mounts:

Group-N motor mounts:

Group N Subaru Motor Mounts Set! Legacy Gt, Sti, WRX See Listing for Fitment!

Perrin Performance motor mounts:

Perrin Performance Motor Mount Kit Subaru WRX/STI 02-14

Torque Solution motor mounts:

Torque Solution Engine Mounts: Subaru Wrx Sti 2002-2016

I’m making this as a response to so many people saying that motor mounts are a terrible install. I think they’re cake, and I want to show why. I had originally installed the Tigwerks motor mounts, but their NVH was a little much for my tastes so I went to Group Ns, and that’s where this install was born (my second time through). I’d do it again and could accomplish the whole process inside of two hours with mandatory beer breaks.

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