4) Make matching marks on the steering wheel and steering shaft.

• This allows you to reinstall the wheel “straight” and “centered”.

5) Remove the steering wheel nut, and remove the steering wheel.

• This nut is 17mm and is lightly torque (~33.2 ft-lb), you may need an extension to clear the steering wheel itself. Do not remove this nut completely when loosening the wheel from the steering column as it will prevent you from pulling the wheel off with the roll connector attached OR hitting yourself in the forehead.
• The actual removal of the wheel is straightforward, however, it can be frustrating because the wheel does not just “pop” right out. You may need to “rock” the wheel left and right in order to free it from the spline and allow you to pull it out.

6A) GD Chassis: Remove the plastic housing on the rear of the steering wheel.

• This is necessary only if you are replacing your wheel with one which does not have this rear plastic housing (all core swaps more than likely will require this step)
• There are four (4) brass colored screws that will require a screwdriver to remove. Once you have removed these, you may transfer your plastic housing to the new steering wheel.

6B) GR Chassis: Remove the plastic housing on the rear of the steering wheel.

• This is necessary only if you are replacing your wheel with one which does not have this rear plastic housing (all core swaps more than likely will require this step)
• There are four (4) silver colored screws that will require a screwdriver to remove. Once you have removed these, you may remove the plastic housing by simply pushing or pulling on the two small tabs located at the bottom spoke of the steering wheel.
• In order to remove the radio and cruise control (or blanks if applicable), flip the wheel over and you will see two (2) additional silver colored screws. Remove these.