Category Archives: WRX

Subaru, Turbo, USDM, WRX

Brake Pad WRX install 02-05

Brake Pad WRX install 02-05:

This is a basic brake pad removal and install walk through with a Subaru Impreza WRX. Make sure to go slowly to ensure you don’t introduce air into the brake system.

1.)Loosen your lug nuts for the corner you are working on, jack the vehicle up and put it on a jack stand, then remove the wheel.

Brake pad: A Subaru Impreza WRX stock brake caliper.

2.)You now need to dislocate the caliper. There are two 14mm bolts that need to be removed: A lower one, and an upper one. Once removed you can wiggle the caliper back off the rotor, and lay it up on top of the rotor next to the strut. At this point, DO NOT let anyone touch the brake pedal.

3.) At this point you can pull the pads free. I just carefully wedged my finger between the rotor and the pad to lever them free. They locate/remove in a manner perpendicular to the axis of the rotor. There are two of them on each side; remove them both. You will note that the inside pad has a metal ‘clip’ attached to it. The purpose of this is actually to rub against the rotor when the pad material is getting worn low; thus creating the horrid metallic squeal that will remind you your brakes need attention.

4.) Organize the new parts. There are two pads, each with one plastic-coated plate, and one shiny metallic plate, and one metal clip. Subaru also provide some brake grease for you.

5.) Remove the old clips by just dislodging them with your fingers.

6.) Put the new clips located in the position of where the old clips went.

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EJ257, Fuel Pump, Legacy, STi, Subaru, Turbo, WRX

Fuel Pump Walbro 255lph for 2008 STi/WRX/LGT Install:

Walbro Fuel Pump for 2008 -11 STi/WRX/LGT Install:

Install guide for those looking to upgrade the factory WRX, STi, or LGT fuel pump. I recently found the stock pump to be inadequate when running high boost and E85. When ordering the pump, you DO NOT need the filter kit, it WILL NOT fit in the housing. Make sure to run the car down under the 1/4 tank mark before beginning. There will be gas spillage so make sure you have plenty of fresh air and towels around to clean up.

1.) Pop the gas cap off to relieve fuel pressure from the tank. Remove your lower rear seat by pulling upwards on each side and the middle. There are 3 snap in spots. Place your seat somewhere clean and out of the way. Once you do this you can see the fuel pump access cover and harness. Unplug this harness.

2.) Remove the 4 screws holding the access cover in place and place them somewhere safe away from the access cover.

3.) Now you can see the fuel pump access point. There are 3 fuel lines, 8 8mm nuts, and the electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector now and stuff it out of the way. Grab some of your handy shop towels and place them under the fuel lines in case of spillage. Once you have removed the fuel lines it should look like this:

Fuel Pump: There are 3 fuel lines, 8 8mm nuts, and the electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector now and stuff it out of the way. Grab some of your handy shop towels and place them under the fuel lines in case of spillage.

4.) Remove all 8 of the 8mm nuts and place them somewhere safe. Gently remove the metal bracket surrounding the entire assembly to gain access to the housing and place it somewhere safe. Slowly remove the fuel pump assembly by contorting it, be careful not to damage the float or sensor. Once the housing is removed it may spill, make sure you have plenty of towels laid down in your car. If all went well it should look like this:

Fuel Pump: Gently remove the metal bracket surrounding the entire assembly to gain access to the housing and place it somewhere safe. Slowly remove the fuel pump assembly by contorting it, be careful not to damage the float or sensor.
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STi, Subaru, Transmission, Turbo, WRX

Group N STi Transmission Mount Install:

Group N STi Transmission Mount Install:

How to install an STi Group N Transmission Mount for manual transmission only. There is a significant difference between the STi Group N transmission mount and the stock one. The STi Group N mount is not only harder, but has more material to it. The stock mount is soft enough to compress with your hand, whereas standing on the STi Group N mount barely deflects the material.

Group N: Stock transmission mount on the left. STi Group N transmission mount on the right.

 

1.) To start off, look for the long crossmember holding up the transmission- it will be at the end closest to the engine. The ends of this crossmember are right near the rear mount for the front A arm, and are held in with a large 17mm bolt, one on the driver side and one on the passenger side. Remove them both completely. Fair warning- these bolts were tight from the factory. I placed a 3 foot length of pipe over my socket wrench for leverage after I had a casualty- I broke one of the 4″ long socket extensions.

2.)  remove the 2 14mm nuts that hold the bottom of the transmission mount to the crossmember that runs the length of the transmission- these were also tight but came out without breaking any of my tools.

3.) At the rear of the transmission, you will find the third and final crossmember holding the transmission in its place. There are four 14mm bolts in this crossmember there are two on the driver side.

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Ej20, EJ257, exhaust, Turbo, USDM, WRX

Turboback Exhaust Install on 02-07 Subaru WRX:

Turboback Exhaust Install on 02-07 Subaru WRX:

Bone stock the WRX is one of the best performing entry level sports cars you can find, but there’s always room for improvement. Replacing the stock 2.25″ turboback exhaust and it’s 2 catalytic converters with a 3″ turboback exhaust, featuring one high flow cat, should allow the turbo to spool up easier and quicker for more low end grunt.

1.) Remove the heatshield. You’ll be amazed at the amount of bolts used to hold on this simple piece of metal. There are 5 on the left side (viewing from the front of the car), one on the back, and two on the right side. After you have all the bolts removed you’re going to need some keen geometry skills to get the heat shield out of the engine bay but once you do, the downpipe to turbo connection is easily available. Once the downpipe is exposed look for the bottom heatshield. It connects to the downpipe by one bolt.

2.) Loosen the downpipe. There are only 5 bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo. They are surprisingly easy to get to. Now would also be a good time to remove the O2 sensor from the Downpipe.

3.) Disconnect the remaining hangers. It’s a good idea to use photos of the exhaust out of the car in order to point out where the hangers are in relation to the whole system. Install the new downpipe by lining up the turbo/downpipe bolts then securing the hangers. There are 2 hangers for the downpipe shown here. The front one bolts into the transmission. The second rests on a J bracket and is screwed in.

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Ej20, EJ257, STi, Subaru, TMIC, Turbo, WRX

O2 Sensor replacement on 02-07 Subaru WRX/STi:

O2 Sensor replacement on 02-07 Subaru WRX/STi:

This is a guide to replace your front 02 sensor in your 02-07 Subaru WRX/STi. This guide will go step by step through the process.

Denso 234-9120 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor)

O2 sensor location in the exhaust manifold.

1.) The first thing you need to do is place the jack under your car. I chose to use the pinch weld under the passenger’s door area. Next you will want to remove the wheel from the car so you will have better access to the O2 sensor. I did this by using a 19mm socket with an extension.

2.) Upon removing the wheel, you should notice a small plastic flap with a few plastic retaining screws holding it in place. I have circled them in red in the picture below.

3.) You are going to want to remove these using flat head and phillips head screw drivers. Take care in making sure you do your best to not strip them out. If you do, you will end up having to either pry them out or pull them out with a set of pliers. If you need to replace any of these, you can usually find them at any autoparts store.

4.) Once you have all of the plastic screws pulled out, remove the plastic cover.

5.) If you pull the remaining plastic cover to the right, you will be able to see the O2 sensor. You can opt to remove the larger of the plastic fender well shields, but I did not see much point in doing so as it would not really yield much more room for access.

6.) With the O2 sensor exposed, you will want to spray it with some lubricant and my preferred lubricant is PB Blaster. With that now soaking in a bit, you are now going to want to go and pop your hood to gain access to the plug end of the sensor.

7.) Looking at your engine bay, you will want to move to the left side (passenger side). Underneath this cover are two connections, the top one is for your front O2 sensor. Go ahead and disconnect that plug.

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Impreza, STi, Subaru, WRX

Headlight Amber Signal Removal/Clearing WRX/STi:

Headlight Amber Signal Removal/Clearing WRX/STi:

Here is a guide for Subaru headlights to remove the amber turn signal and clear the headlight. This guide also covers on how to reseal your headlight.

A blobeye STi with modified headlights that’s had it’s amber turn signals removed.

1.) Before we start to remove the headlight assembly itself, we have to remove the grill; so pop the hood and unhitch the 4 small, and 2 large clips. Small top ones can be unclipped by using a finger (if yours is narrow enough), or a small flat-head screwdriver.
*If in doubt, you can refer to manual*

2.) Now the grill is out of the way, we can remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the assembly in place.

3.) Remove the 2 plastic rivets on each side by the headlights. It makes it a lot easier to get the headlight out as you can now shift/move/bent the bumper a bit to get that tad more clearance.

4.) Now to pull the headlight out of the clips its being held in there. Yes, even more stuff holding them in! Obviously Subaru didn’t want them coming out easily. I’ve found disconnecting the low beam, pulling the inner-most corner of the assembly out first, then maneuvering the outer edge out the easiest way. Followed by maneuvering the headlight so you can then disconnect the high beam and park/indicator plugs.

5.) OK, so you’ve managed to remove one headlight.You can now take this inside, but whatever you do, when you put it down, lay it on something soft, like a (clean) towel or carpet, that won’t scratch the lens. Now to go about removing all the globes and associated wiring.

6.) Low beam. Turn the Bulb stem anti-clockwise so the slots line up with the recesses, then pull out.

7.) Indicator & Parking. Again, same as low beam, twist anti-clockwise, and pull out.

8.) High beam. First remove the water/dust-proof cover by the same method as above. Pull off the negative/ground (black) carefully by using a pair of pliers, should slide right off. Then push-slide the retaining clip in so that you can get the high beam bulb out. The plug-ends (grey and black socket things) can be removed from the back by either holding them (note, not holding the wires) and pulling firmly, or using those pliers you had before.

9.) Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit.

This is what you should be looking at:

Headlight: Indicator/Parking/Low Beam/High Beam breakdown.
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STi, Subaru, TMIC, Turbo, WRX

Boost Gauge Install on Subaru STi/WRX 08-13:

Boost Gauge Install on Subaru STi/WRX 08-13:

This is a guide on installing a boost gauge in a 2010 STi.

Boost Gauge: A installed boost gauge in a GR STi.

Boost Gauge: INTERIOR WIRING AND GAUGE INSTALLATION

1.) Pull off the lower dash cover. It just has clips holding it on.

2.) These are the only two screws that hold the lower dash to rest of the dash. Remove these and the rest of the lower dash can be pulled off.

3.) Lower dash pulled away from the upper, left of the steering wheel.

4.) Lower dash pulled away from the upper, right side of the steering wheel.

5.) There are 4 clips holding the instrument hood to the dash. The entire hood pulls off as one whole unit, but the hard part is getting a good grip. To get better finger placement, I pulled the top of the inner part of the hood away, which revealed a little lip that I could use to pull the hood off. Caution: Do not pull heavily on the inner piece because it is bolted to the rest of the hood at the bottom and could break if you pull on it too hard. Just pull on the top part of the instrument hood itself. Also be careful not to lose the 4 yellow clips that hold the hood to the dash. They come out easily and can get lost.

6.) There are two screws for the instrument cluster. One is circled in the pic and the other is to its left.

7.) Pop the plug off the cluster on the right side.

8.) I ran the wires for the boost gauge through the upper middle hole above the gauge cluster.

9.) Tap into the purple wire on the dimmer switch for headlight power. This wire is only powered when the headlights or parking lights are turned on.

10.) Close-up of where I spliced into the purple wire. For the boost gauge, the ORANGE wire splices into this purple wire. The wire is black in my picture because I used black wire to extend the wires coming out of the back of the gauge.

11.) For ACC power, use the brown and white striped wire on the top connector above the fuse box. This wire is powered when the key is in the “ACC” position only. With the boost gauge, you connect BOTH the RED and WHITE wires to this wire.

The green and white striped wire on the same connector is on all the time, meaning it is powered even when the car is off. I found that out the hard way. (Do not use that wire.)

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Impreza, Stance, STi, Subaru, WRX

Hood damper Installation for Subaru WRX/STi

Hood damper Installation for Subaru WRX/STi:

This is a Tein hood damper installation guide for your Subaru Impreza WRX/STi.

Tein BHD01-S28 Hood Damper for Subaru Impreza

Tools Required: 10mm Socket
12mm Socket
Razor

1. Inspect contents of the kit!

Tein hood dampers: Note the Red bottle is the thread locker, clear bottle is grease!

Note the Red bottle is the thread locker, clear bottle is grease!

2. Assemble the dampers by attaching the aluminum extensions to the long ball joint and damper body
Apply thread locker to all threads.
The small ball joint goes on the other end!

3. Next, remove the center fender bolt using a 10mm socket and ratchet, install the joint ball post and washer into this bolt hole, use the tread locker. Torque to 7.5ftlbs.

4. Use a razor to make a clean cut to the factory rubber molding from the fender to the beginning of the engine bay.

5. Take an assembled Tein Hood Damper and remove the locking pin from the Ball Joint (female end), using a little grease cover the male end and place female end over the male end, re-insert locking pin.

Note, the left hand side can be rotated as pictured above to insert the locking pin and then rotated back to the hood.

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