Tag Archives: Brake

Brake Fluid Flush Subaru:

Brake Fluid Flush Subaru:

This is a step by step guide on how to do a brake fluid flush on most Subaru cars. It’s often a good idea to do a brake fluid flush at least once a year to keep your Subaru’s braking system in good condition. This is even more important if you autocross or do track days with your car. Use a good performance brake fluid and not whatever is cheapest at Autozone. I have a strong preference towards ATE and Motul brake fluid. Good fluid combined with good brake pads like a Hawks or Carbotechs will give your Subaru great stopping power.

1.) Either jack-up the vehicle and place a rigid rack under it, or lift-up the vehicle.

2.) Remove all the wheels.

3.) Drain the brake fluid from master cylinder.

4.) Refill the reservoir tank with recommended brake fluid.


• Avoid mixing different brands of brake fluid to prevent degrading the quality of fluid.
• Be careful not to allow dirt or dust to get into the reservoir tank.
Air bleeding sequence (1) → (2) → (3) → (4)

Brake Fluid Flush Subaru: Air bleeding sequence (1) → (2) → (3) → (4)

5.) Install one end of a vinyl tube onto the air bleeder and insert the other end of the tube into a container to collect the brake fluid.

Brake Fluid Flush Subaru: Install one end of a vinyl tube onto the air bleeder and insert the other end of the tube into a container to collect the brake fluid.


• Cover the bleeder with cloth, when loosening it, to prevent brake fluid from being splashed over surrounding parts.
• During the bleeding operation, keep the brake reservoir tank filled with brake fluid to eliminate entry of air.
• The brake pedal operation must be very slow.
• For convenience and safety, two people should do the work.
• The amount of brake fluid required is approx. 500
m2 (16.9 US fl oz, 17.6 Imp fl oz) for total brake

6.) Have a friend depress the brake pedal slowly two or three times and then hold it depressed.

Antilock Brake System For Early Subaru Part 2:

Antilock Brake System for Early Subarus:

ABS Service And Brake Bleeding Procedures:

Antilock Brake System for Early Subarus: The first Subaru rally car the Legacy RS relied upon the bousch/nippon ABS units to perform on the WRC circuit.

Always check the fluid level of the master cylinder and bleed the wheel cylinders following the procedure listed in the service manual. When the HCU has been removed and/or replaced, the fluid must be drained. Replace the cone screws with bleed screws and attach a hose to drain fluid to a container.

Antilock: ABS Service And Brake Bleeding Procedures: A early Subaru Nippon ABS unit ECU.

Use extreme care when performing this procedure to prevent damage to the internal components of the HCU. Do not apply AV signal for more than 5 seconds for each application. If no AV signal is received, it is not necessary to close bleed screw between brake pedal applications.

Antilock Brake System Notes and Cautions:

The ECU on early Subaru ABS systems can only display one trouble code–the lowest numbered code. Correct the fault indicated by the trouble code and recheck ECU for another code. Repeat the self-diagnostic procedure listed above, and the next highest code will be displayed. Refer to the appropriate model year service manual for the trouble codes and corrective actions. While the ABS ECU is in the fault mode, the ABS will go to fail-safe and remain passive under all braking conditions. The brake system will function as a conventional power-assisted system without ABS.

Brake Pad WRX install 02-05

Brake Pad WRX install 02-05:

This is a basic brake pad removal and install walk through with a Subaru Impreza WRX. Make sure to go slowly to ensure you don’t introduce air into the brake system.

1.)Loosen your lug nuts for the corner you are working on, jack the vehicle up and put it on a jack stand, then remove the wheel.

Brake pad: A Subaru Impreza WRX stock brake caliper.

2.)You now need to dislocate the caliper. There are two 14mm bolts that need to be removed: A lower one, and an upper one. Once removed you can wiggle the caliper back off the rotor, and lay it up on top of the rotor next to the strut. At this point, DO NOT let anyone touch the brake pedal.

3.) At this point you can pull the pads free. I just carefully wedged my finger between the rotor and the pad to lever them free. They locate/remove in a manner perpendicular to the axis of the rotor. There are two of them on each side; remove them both. You will note that the inside pad has a metal ‘clip’ attached to it. The purpose of this is actually to rub against the rotor when the pad material is getting worn low; thus creating the horrid metallic squeal that will remind you your brakes need attention.

4.) Organize the new parts. There are two pads, each with one plastic-coated plate, and one shiny metallic plate, and one metal clip. Subaru also provide some brake grease for you.

5.) Remove the old clips by just dislodging them with your fingers.

6.) Put the new clips located in the position of where the old clips went.