If you’ve never changed oil on a 04-07 WRX STi this guide will take your step by step through the oil change process. This guide should be applicable to most turbocharged Subaru cars throughout the years. Check at the end of the post for part numbers, oil, filters and tools needed to complete an oil change.
Oil Change: The legendary oil filter subaru ring of fire.
1.) Get you car on a hard, even, flat surface and get your car up on jack stands. I put mine up on 4 jack stands, so that later on when you are draining the oil, the car is already level and will drain properly.
Where to jack and put jack stands has been debated many times before.
2.) Once you get your car up on 4 jack stands, it is time to remove the brush guard. There are 5 bolts to remove and they are all 12mm.
3.) Now that you got your brush guard off its time to get under the car and start your oil change. You should take a second and locate the oil filter and the oil drain plug.
4.) If your engine is cool, go ahead and start it up and let it run for about 5 minutes. This helps with the oil change. The oil gets warm and drains much easier and quicker.
Walbro Fuel Pump for 2008 -11 STi/WRX/LGT Install:
Install guide for those looking to upgrade the factory WRX, STi, or LGT fuel pump. I recently found the stock pump to be inadequate when running high boost and E85. When ordering the pump, you DO NOT need the filter kit, it WILL NOT fit in the housing. Make sure to run the car down under the 1/4 tank mark before beginning. There will be gas spillage so make sure you have plenty of fresh air and towels around to clean up.
1.) Pop the gas cap off to relieve fuel pressure from the tank. Remove your lower rear seat by pulling upwards on each side and the middle. There are 3 snap in spots. Place your seat somewhere clean and out of the way. Once you do this you can see the fuel pump access cover and harness. Unplug this harness.
2.) Remove the 4 screws holding the access cover in place and place them somewhere safe away from the access cover.
3.) Now you can see the fuel pump access point. There are 3 fuel lines, 8 8mm nuts, and the electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector now and stuff it out of the way. Grab some of your handy shop towels and place them under the fuel lines in case of spillage. Once you have removed the fuel lines it should look like this:
Fuel Pump: There are 3 fuel lines, 8 8mm nuts, and the electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector now and stuff it out of the way. Grab some of your handy shop towels and place them under the fuel lines in case of spillage.
4.) Remove all 8 of the 8mm nuts and place them somewhere safe. Gently remove the metal bracket surrounding the entire assembly to gain access to the housing and place it somewhere safe. Slowly remove the fuel pump assembly by contorting it, be careful not to damage the float or sensor. Once the housing is removed it may spill, make sure you have plenty of towels laid down in your car. If all went well it should look like this:
Fuel Pump: Gently remove the metal bracket surrounding the entire assembly to gain access to the housing and place it somewhere safe. Slowly remove the fuel pump assembly by contorting it, be careful not to damage the float or sensor.
How to install an STi Group N Transmission Mount for manual transmission only. There is a significant difference between the STi Group N transmission mount and the stock one. The STi Group N mount is not only harder, but has more material to it. The stock mount is soft enough to compress with your hand, whereas standing on the STi Group N mount barely deflects the material.
1.) To start off, look for the long crossmember holding up the transmission- it will be at the end closest to the engine. The ends of this crossmember are right near the rear mount for the front A arm, and are held in with a large 17mm bolt, one on the driver side and one on the passenger side. Remove them both completely. Fair warning- these bolts were tight from the factory. I placed a 3 foot length of pipe over my socket wrench for leverage after I had a casualty- I broke one of the 4″ long socket extensions.
2.) remove the 2 14mm nuts that hold the bottom of the transmission mount to the crossmember that runs the length of the transmission- these were also tight but came out without breaking any of my tools.
3.) At the rear of the transmission, you will find the third and final crossmember holding the transmission in its place. There are four 14mm bolts in this crossmember there are two on the driver side.
1.) The first thing you need to do is place the jack under your car. I chose to use the pinch weld under the passenger’s door area. Next you will want to remove the wheel from the car so you will have better access to the O2 sensor. I did this by using a 19mm socket with an extension.
2.) Upon removing the wheel, you should notice a small plastic flap with a few plastic retaining screws holding it in place. I have circled them in red in the picture below.
3.) You are going to want to remove these using flat head and phillips head screw drivers. Take care in making sure you do your best to not strip them out. If you do, you will end up having to either pry them out or pull them out with a set of pliers. If you need to replace any of these, you can usually find them at any autoparts store.
4.) Once you have all of the plastic screws pulled out, remove the plastic cover.
5.) If you pull the remaining plastic cover to the right, you will be able to see the O2 sensor. You can opt to remove the larger of the plastic fender well shields, but I did not see much point in doing so as it would not really yield much more room for access.
6.) With the O2 sensor exposed, you will want to spray it with some lubricant and my preferred lubricant is PB Blaster. With that now soaking in a bit, you are now going to want to go and pop your hood to gain access to the plug end of the sensor.
7.) Looking at your engine bay, you will want to move to the left side (passenger side). Underneath this cover are two connections, the top one is for your front O2 sensor. Go ahead and disconnect that plug.
This is a guide on how to change your transmission oil in your turbo Subaru. Transmission oil is usually changed at 30,000 mile intervals, though more frequent changes are suggested if you take part in track days.
21mm Socket wrench or other tool of your choice
(I used a socket set with the large spark plug fitting and hollow
extension for extra leverage, dad’s tent is now missing one pole.)
– New sump washer
– Funnel
– 2 foot length of garden hose or similar sized tubing.
– Gear oil* – 3.9 quarts for wrx/sti gearbox/front diff. (Extra 800ml for rear diff)
– Oilpan or large container capable of holding 4+ quarts.
1.) First things first, jack the car up, or drive it onto wheel stands. Make sure the hand brake is on. T
Do not go under the car unless you’re sure it’s secure on it’s stands.
2.) Ensure the car is cool enough to work on, wait at least an hour after driving. Now you’ll need to find the transmission dipstick, which is located between
the turbo and intercooler. Pull it out.
3.) Now you can crawl under the car with your socket, dropsheet & oil pan. Looking from the middle of the car towards the front, you’ll be able to
see the drive shafts, transmission & diff, transmission plug, the engine oil sump plug.
4.) The front transmission oil plug is the one you want, loosen it and then slowly unwind it by hand until the end of the thread, then get yourself and the cat out of the way before you both get covered in oil. If all goes to plan, you’ll get most of the spent oil into your container.
Here is a guide for Subaru headlights to remove the amber turn signal and clear the headlight. This guide also covers on how to reseal your headlight.
A blobeye STi with modified headlights that’s had it’s amber turn signals removed.
1.) Before we start to remove the headlight assembly itself, we have to remove the grill; so pop the hood and unhitch the 4 small, and 2 large clips. Small top ones can be unclipped by using a finger (if yours is narrow enough), or a small flat-head screwdriver.
*If in doubt, you can refer to manual*
2.) Now the grill is out of the way, we can remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the assembly in place.
3.) Remove the 2 plastic rivets on each side by the headlights. It makes it a lot easier to get the headlight out as you can now shift/move/bent the bumper a bit to get that tad more clearance.
4.) Now to pull the headlight out of the clips its being held in there. Yes, even more stuff holding them in! Obviously Subaru didn’t want them coming out easily. I’ve found disconnecting the low beam, pulling the inner-most corner of the assembly out first, then maneuvering the outer edge out the easiest way. Followed by maneuvering the headlight so you can then disconnect the high beam and park/indicator plugs.
5.) OK, so you’ve managed to remove one headlight.You can now take this inside, but whatever you do, when you put it down, lay it on something soft, like a (clean) towel or carpet, that won’t scratch the lens. Now to go about removing all the globes and associated wiring.
6.) Low beam. Turn the Bulb stem anti-clockwise so the slots line up with the recesses, then pull out.
7.) Indicator & Parking. Again, same as low beam, twist anti-clockwise, and pull out.
8.) High beam. First remove the water/dust-proof cover by the same method as above. Pull off the negative/ground (black) carefully by using a pair of pliers, should slide right off. Then push-slide the retaining clip in so that you can get the high beam bulb out. The plug-ends (grey and black socket things) can be removed from the back by either holding them (note, not holding the wires) and pulling firmly, or using those pliers you had before.
Boost Gauge: INTERIOR WIRING AND GAUGE INSTALLATION
1.) Pull off the lower dash cover. It just has clips holding it on.
2.) These are the only two screws that hold the lower dash to rest of the dash. Remove these and the rest of the lower dash can be pulled off.
3.) Lower dash pulled away from the upper, left of the steering wheel.
4.) Lower dash pulled away from the upper, right side of the steering wheel.
5.) There are 4 clips holding the instrument hood to the dash. The entire hood pulls off as one whole unit, but the hard part is getting a good grip. To get better finger placement, I pulled the top of the inner part of the hood away, which revealed a little lip that I could use to pull the hood off. Caution: Do not pull heavily on the inner piece because it is bolted to the rest of the hood at the bottom and could break if you pull on it too hard. Just pull on the top part of the instrument hood itself. Also be careful not to lose the 4 yellow clips that hold the hood to the dash. They come out easily and can get lost.
6.) There are two screws for the instrument cluster. One is circled in the pic and the other is to its left.
7.) Pop the plug off the cluster on the right side.
8.) I ran the wires for the boost gauge through the upper middle hole above the gauge cluster.
9.) Tap into the purple wire on the dimmer switch for headlight power. This wire is only powered when the headlights or parking lights are turned on.
10.) Close-up of where I spliced into the purple wire. For the boost gauge, the ORANGE wire splices into this purple wire. The wire is black in my picture because I used black wire to extend the wires coming out of the back of the gauge.
11.) For ACC power, use the brown and white striped wire on the top connector above the fuse box. This wire is powered when the key is in the “ACC” position only. With the boost gauge, you connect BOTH the RED and WHITE wires to this wire.
The green and white striped wire on the same connector is on all the time, meaning it is powered even when the car is off. I found that out the hard way. (Do not use that wire.)
Tein hood dampers: Note the Red bottle is the thread locker, clear bottle is grease!
Note the Red bottle is the thread locker, clear bottle is grease!
2. Assemble the dampers by attaching the aluminum extensions to the long ball joint and damper body
Apply thread locker to all threads.
The small ball joint goes on the other end!
3. Next, remove the center fender bolt using a 10mm socket and ratchet, install the joint ball post and washer into this bolt hole, use the tread locker. Torque to 7.5ftlbs.
4. Use a razor to make a clean cut to the factory rubber molding from the fender to the beginning of the engine bay.
5. Take an assembled Tein Hood Damper and remove the locking pin from the Ball Joint (female end), using a little grease cover the male end and place female end over the male end, re-insert locking pin.
Note, the left hand side can be rotated as pictured above to insert the locking pin and then rotated back to the hood.
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