Tag Archives: strut tower brace

Rear strut brace install on Subaru WRX/STi 08+:

Rear strut brace install on Subaru WRX/STi 08+:

This is a step by step guide on how to install a rear strut brace in a 2008+ Subaru WRX/STi. Installing a rear strut brace on a 2008+ WRX/STi is more much more involved than installing a front brace. The chassis is significantly different than the new-age 02-07 Subaru Impreza. The need to cut clearances into the floor for the left and right brackets increases the difficulty for this install.

1.) Only work on one strut tower at a time. Only loosen one set of nuts at a time, and do not put the car up on lifts, jacks, or anything else that lifts the tires off the ground. All of these precautions are to minimize changes to the alignment while working on the installation.

2.) Loosen the left and right hinges on the rear strut brace using the 17mm socket and the 8mm allen head wrench. You want to be able to move the brace around as you attach each side bracket to the car’s strut towers.

3.) Remove the hatch floor and set it aside.

Rear strut brace install on Subaru WRX/STi 08+: Remove the rear floor.

4.) Remove the left and right panels from the wheel covering so that you’ll have access to the tops of the strut towers. Working your finger tips under the edge of the panel and carefully working my way around the edges while pulling away from the wheel cover worked best without requiring any special tools. It also helped avoid scratching the plastic.

Rear strut brace install on Subaru WRX/STi 08+: Remove these panels both both sides with your hands. If you can’t do that gently use a screwdriver to remove.

Strut Tower Brace front install WRX/STi

Strut tower front brace install WRX/STi:

This strut tower brace guide should work on both 04 and 05’s just fine (mine is an 05). I’m not sure about the 06s’ since they relocated the AC line and it looks like Whiteline makes the only strut bar that will work on an 06. A little bit of modification with the 06+ model cars might be necessary. These are also specific to the JDM Spec-C Titanium Strut Bar but should work as a general guide for any strut bar on an STi.

1.) Remove alarm horn bar from passenger strut tower bolts which are 12mm. Disconnect the horn and put it aside for now. We’ll screw the horn into the side of the strut tower once we’ve installed the strut bar.

Strut tower brace: Removing the alarm horn bracket. Some models did not come with the alarm horn option so you do not need to do this.

2.)Lower the AC line bracket down a screw. This is the AC Bracket you need to unscrew (use a philips head screw driver or 10mm ratchet). You’ll need to remove the bolt that connects the AC line to the bracket and also the bracket where it connects to the firewall. Remount the bracket down a screw by mounting the upper hole where the bottom screw hole on the firewall is. The bracket is the copper colored metal piece.

Strut Tower Brace: Remove the copper bracket off of it’s mount on the firewall.

3.) Install Strut Bar.

First remove the bolts holding the struts to the strut walls. Bolts are 12mm. They should come off pretty easily since they are only torqued down to 14.5ft-lbs.

I found it was easiest to unscrew the strut bar into 3 pieces, the 2 parts that connect to the strut tower and then the actual bar itself (bolts/screws are 12mm). I put the round strut tower parts on first and loosely bolted them down. Then I placed the strut bar on top and loosely screwed down the strut bar to the strut tower connection pieces.

Strut tower brace: Passenger side strut bar end installed.
Strut Tower Brace: Driver’s side strut bar end installed.