Subaru vehicles are more reliable than ever before. To assure their continued reliability, a schedule of inspection and maintenance (I & M) services is prescribed by Subaru of America for every Subaru vehicle sold. A copy of this schedule can be found in the Warranty and Maintenance Booklet located in the vehicle glove compartment.
Subaru vehicle maintenance inspections services are divided into recommended intervals beginning with three months or 3000 miles (whichever comes first). Each additional level in the maintenance schedule (7,500/15,000/ 30,000 miles) adds more maintenance and inspection steps to the process. The 15,000 (15 month) and 30,000 mile (30 month) services are ‘major’ services, and include the most comprehensive range of component checks, part replacements and adjustments.
If you are already familiar with Subaru vehicles, you may have developed a routine when performing a vehicle safety maintenance inspections. Following a set routine allows you to start at one end of the vehicle and end up at the other end, having performed all of the necessary safety inspection steps along the way.
Repetition of the safety inspection may also allow you to commit the steps to memory, but a checklist can be a helpful addition that leaves nothing to chance (or memory). Checking items off the checklist provides a written record that can be shared with the customer and retained for your service records as well.
Recommended steps in a Subaru Safety Maintenance Inspections are also spelled out in the owner’s Warranty and Maintenance Booklet. Some of the steps overlap services performed during the scheduled maintenance program. It could be argued that any scheduled maintenance should always include a Safety Inspection. Most of the Safety Maintenance Inspection steps are based on common sense, but it’s surprising how frequently these simple suggestions are ignored.
Wheel arch height (vehicle ride height) as well as front and rear wheel alignment should be inspected at 30 month/30,000 mile intervals. Winter driving and its attendant chuckholes may shorten that maintenance interval for some drivers
While inspecting wheel alignment, also check for obvious signs of damage to suspension components, tightness of bolts and nuts and the condition of other under car components.
Check, adjust and/or measure wheel alignment in accordance with the following procedures:
1.) Wheel arch height (front and rear)
2.) Camber (front and rear)
3.) Caster (front)
4.) Front toe-in
5.) Rear toe-in
6.) Thrust angle (rear)
7.) Wheel steering angle
1. Wheel Arch Height
1.) Adjust the tire pressures to specifications.
2.) Set the vehicle under “curb weight” conditions (empty luggage compartment, install spare tire, jack, service tools, and top off fuel tank).
3.) Set steering wheel in a wheel-forward position.
4.) Suspend a thread from the wheel arch (point “A” in figure above) to determine a point directly above the center of the spindle.
5.) Measure the distance between the measuring point and the center of the spindle.
6.) Consult the service manual for Wheel Arch Height specifications.
As we mentioned, it takes a special tool to work within the limited clearance area between the cylinder heads and the frame rails. The ST 498187 is a three part tool. One part wraps around the cam lobes, a second touches the outer edges of two shim buckets, and a third eccentric bolt exerts the necessary pressure to push a pair of shim buckets away from the cam lobe to make shim removal and replacement possible.
The tool installed in the three steps:
• Wrap the first half of the tool (part A) around the lobes.
• Attach the second half (part B) to part A by sliding its pins through the slotted holes in part A.
• Install the eccentric bolt (part C) into the hole in part A.
The eccentric bolt forces parts A and B away from one another. Because part A can’t move (it’s wedged against the cam lobes), the only thing that can move is part B. Part B moves by forcing the shim buckets downward, away from the camshaft.
The first versions of the 2.5 liter twin cam engines employed non-hydraulic valve actuation. Like the timing belt, the clearance between the engine valves and the shim and bucket valve actuators does not require inspection and/or adjustment until 105,000 miles have elapsed. However, various circumstances may require an adjustment before that milestone is reached.
Clearance is tight and there is little room to work between the cylinder heads and the left and right frame rails. A special tool (ST 49818700) is available for depressing the valves and removing the adjusting shims. Without this tool, the job is impossible to accomplish with the engine in the car. Once again, we had the benefit of working on an engine that had already been removed from the car. Before you can adjust the valves, the engine must be cold. Consult the service manual to determine the parts that will need to be moved or removed to make some room to work.
Unlike some overhead cam engines that require you to rotate the cam until each cam lobe is facing 180 degrees away from the adjustment shim, Subaru has very specific procedures for adjusting four valves at a time (a pair of intakes and a pair of exhausts). The pairs of intakes and exhausts are never for the same cylinder, which makes things rather interesting. This system requires you to turn the crankshaft a total of four times to complete the adjustment procedure.
This is a step by step guide in installing the Limited Spoiler from a 07 STi.
Here is the limited spoiler, already painted to match the lid:
The part number is actually E7210FE900 and the kit cost $221 shipped at the time of purchase, but prices may have changed.
1.)From the factory this fitting is already installed in the center of the spoiler, if you bought it unpainted, remove this BEFORE you get your spoiler painted. It just makes it easier. I simply cut the nipple off so that nothing is protruding from the bottom of the spoiler. You can also use the nipple and cut a hole in your trunk.
2.) The 3M tape you want to use looks like this, I picked it up at the local auto parts/auto body shop. You can see the part number in the picture. It costs around $15 and you will have enough for two or more installations.
The Cybrid Power Steering System was standard equipment on the XT6. It’s a computer controlled,
electric motor-driven hydraulic steering system, using a power-assisted rack and pinion assembly similar to the XT. This system provides improved steering feel and more precise power assist over a wider operating range. Fuel consumption is reduced because it requires less horsepower due to the electrically-driven hydraulic pump. The specific system used on the XT6 is quicker than other XT power steering systems, with just 3.2 turns lock-to-lock.
• The Motor and Pump assembly mounted on the front bulkhead (firewall).
• A Steering Sensor located inside the vehicle at the base of the steering column.
• A Signal Controller located in the left rear quarter panel.
• The Power Controller mounted on the front bulkhead (firewall) to the left of the Motor/Pump assembly.
The Motor/Pump assembly is similar to a starter motor, since it has an armature, fields, and brushes which are serviceable. The electric motor drives a pump which is very similar in design to an engine driven pump. This combination replaces the familiar belt driven P/S pump assembly. The Cybrid System requires special hydraulic fluid to retain stable viscosity during cold temperatures.
The Pump incorporates an electric heater to warm the hydraulic fluid in extremely cold operating conditions, improving the steering performance. A thermistor type switch located on a bracket above the Motor/Pump assembly, senses the underhood (ambient) temperature and sends an input to the Signal Controller.
The Heater operates for approximately five minutes after engine start-up. The Signal Controller grounds the heater relay, which passes battery voltage to the heater. The heater relay is located near the motor/ pump assembly.
Note: The Heater only works when the thermometer signals an extreme cold condition.
This is a step by step guide on installing steering rack bushings (whiteline) on a 08+ WRX/STi. This needs to be done the right way and all the bolts NEED to be torqued with a torque wrench to factory spec for the car to be in a safe operating state.
1.) Remove the under tray. There are 2 12mm bolts towards the front, 1 12mm bolt on the rear, 2 clips on the rear. and 2 plastic pop-out clips on the sides near each wheel well.
2.) After removing the under tray you will need to remove 10 14mm bolts holding the cross member support brace (otherwise known as the jack plate) in place. The bolts that are to be removed are circled in red and yellow.
Note: The bolts circled in yellow are secured by nuts on the topside so you will need the 14mm wench as well. These bolts are torqued down pretty tight if they have never been removed before.
3.) Once the cross member support is removed the steering rack will be exposed as pictured below. Note the location of the 3 bushings denoted by the red arrows.