A step by step guide to rebuilding a Brembo caliper with rebuild kits. This guide includes separating the calipers as well if you want to go that route:
1.) If you have not yet removed calipers from the car remove them, I cleaned mine prior to starting. You will need to disconnect the brake lines and unbolt them from the hub. Also remove the pads, to remove the pads there are 2 pull pin clips thru a set of long pins. The pins hold the pad and metal bracket in place. Remove the 2 pull pins and slide out the 2 longer pins and everything will fall out. Keep in mind there are small plates on the back sides of the brake pads where the pistons hit the pad, these can be easily lost and are marked with arrows for direction.
2.) You then need to split the calipers apart, to do this I used a impact wrench but if you have some good strength it is possible to break the bolts. Pretty sure the bolts on the front are a 13mm and the rears use a allen wrench style bolt which i believe is a size 6.
3.) You will want to pop the pistons out. In order to do this I used, for the rear a inch by 5 inch block of wood, for the front you will need a little thicker of a block. Place the block where the rotor would sit so that the piston doesn’t shoot out and kill someone. (trust me these things will FLY) After doing this i made sure my bolts were very lightly tightened into place, I did this because if you leave the gap the pistons will put force in the way of least resistance which basically means its going to shoot the caliper apart and split it which could cause some pain.
4.) After splitting the calipers and popping the pistons I removed the rubber seal between the 2 pieces as it is small and could very easily be lost. Don’t remove the o-ring prior to step 3 or step 3 is pretty much impossible.
The brake master cylinder is located by the driver’s side strut tower and once you find it the rest is pretty self explanatory. I have a 2005 Subaru STi. Some later years might be slightly different.
10 mm socket and wrenches
Zip tie (optional)
1.) Find the brake master cylinder located just inboard of the drivers side strut tower. The washer fluid bottle will be in the way so unbolt the two bolts and lean it forward, no need to disconnect it altogether.
2.) There are two brackets bolted to the strut tower visible in this picture. These are the two holes used to mount the brace. Unbolt these two holes.
This is a step by step guide on how to install an aftermarket Pitch Stop Mount to your 02-07 Subaru WRX or STi.
1.) Locate and remove the three 10 mm Gold colored bolts that secure the black vacuum lines to the bottom of the intercooler. You will need a shallow socket as it gets tight around the BOV. Careful not to drop them into the engine bay, it will be a PITA to find and retrieve them.
2.) Locate and remove the two 12 mm bolts that secure the recirculating BOV to the bottom of the intercooler. Again be careful not to drop these into the engine bay as it’s a jungle down there and it will be a PITA to retrieve them.
3.) Locate and remove the two 12 mm bolts that secure the intercooler to the engine. These are located one on each side of the intercooler.
4.) Now the intercooler is only held in place by the rubber intake hoses with the clamps. The one that is on top, from the intercooler to the throttle body/intake manifold is easier so do them first. Using the Flat head screw driver or an 8 mm socket loosen the clamps holding the intake piping to the Intake manifold and intercooler. And leave it for now.
5.) This is a little tough to do, but its not impossible. You should be able to do it even if you have large hands. Using the flat head or 8 mm socket, loosen the clamp that holds the intake tube coming from the cold side of the turbo to the intercooler. This is located underneath the intercooler.
If you’ve never changed oil on a 04-07 WRX STi this guide will take your step by step through the oil change process. This guide should be applicable to most turbocharged Subaru cars throughout the years. Check at the end of the post for part numbers, oil, filters and tools needed to complete an oil change.
1.) Get you car on a hard, even, flat surface and get your car up on jack stands. I put mine up on 4 jack stands, so that later on when you are draining the oil, the car is already level and will drain properly.
Where to jack and put jack stands has been debated many times before.
2.) Once you get your car up on 4 jack stands, it is time to remove the brush guard. There are 5 bolts to remove and they are all 12mm.
3.) Now that you got your brush guard off its time to get under the car and start your oil change. You should take a second and locate the oil filter and the oil drain plug.
4.) If your engine is cool, go ahead and start it up and let it run for about 5 minutes. This helps with the oil change. The oil gets warm and drains much easier and quicker.
This is a basic brake pad removal and install walk through with a Subaru Impreza WRX. Make sure to go slowly to ensure you don’t introduce air into the brake system.
1.)Loosen your lug nuts for the corner you are working on, jack the vehicle up and put it on a jack stand, then remove the wheel.
2.)You now need to dislocate the caliper. There are two 14mm bolts that need to be removed: A lower one, and an upper one. Once removed you can wiggle the caliper back off the rotor, and lay it up on top of the rotor next to the strut. At this point, DO NOT let anyone touch the brake pedal.
3.) At this point you can pull the pads free. I just carefully wedged my finger between the rotor and the pad to lever them free. They locate/remove in a manner perpendicular to the axis of the rotor. There are two of them on each side; remove them both. You will note that the inside pad has a metal ‘clip’ attached to it. The purpose of this is actually to rub against the rotor when the pad material is getting worn low; thus creating the horrid metallic squeal that will remind you your brakes need attention.
4.) Organize the new parts. There are two pads, each with one plastic-coated plate, and one shiny metallic plate, and one metal clip. Subaru also provide some brake grease for you.
5.) Remove the old clips by just dislodging them with your fingers.
6.) Put the new clips located in the position of where the old clips went.
Walbro Fuel Pump for 2008 -11 STi/WRX/LGT Install:
Install guide for those looking to upgrade the factory WRX, STi, or LGT fuel pump. I recently found the stock pump to be inadequate when running high boost and E85. When ordering the pump, you DO NOT need the filter kit, it WILL NOT fit in the housing. Make sure to run the car down under the 1/4 tank mark before beginning. There will be gas spillage so make sure you have plenty of fresh air and towels around to clean up.
1.) Pop the gas cap off to relieve fuel pressure from the tank. Remove your lower rear seat by pulling upwards on each side and the middle. There are 3 snap in spots. Place your seat somewhere clean and out of the way. Once you do this you can see the fuel pump access cover and harness. Unplug this harness.
2.) Remove the 4 screws holding the access cover in place and place them somewhere safe away from the access cover.
3.) Now you can see the fuel pump access point. There are 3 fuel lines, 8 8mm nuts, and the electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector now and stuff it out of the way. Grab some of your handy shop towels and place them under the fuel lines in case of spillage. Once you have removed the fuel lines it should look like this:
4.) Remove all 8 of the 8mm nuts and place them somewhere safe. Gently remove the metal bracket surrounding the entire assembly to gain access to the housing and place it somewhere safe. Slowly remove the fuel pump assembly by contorting it, be careful not to damage the float or sensor. Once the housing is removed it may spill, make sure you have plenty of towels laid down in your car. If all went well it should look like this:
1.) To start off, look for the long crossmember holding up the transmission- it will be at the end closest to the engine. The ends of this crossmember are right near the rear mount for the front A arm, and are held in with a large 17mm bolt, one on the driver side and one on the passenger side. Remove them both completely. Fair warning- these bolts were tight from the factory. I placed a 3 foot length of pipe over my socket wrench for leverage after I had a casualty- I broke one of the 4″ long socket extensions.
2.) remove the 2 14mm nuts that hold the bottom of the transmission mount to the crossmember that runs the length of the transmission- these were also tight but came out without breaking any of my tools.
3.) At the rear of the transmission, you will find the third and final crossmember holding the transmission in its place. There are four 14mm bolts in this crossmember there are two on the driver side.
Bone stock the WRX is one of the best performing entry level sports cars you can find, but there’s always room for improvement. Replacing the stock 2.25″ turboback exhaust and it’s 2 catalytic converters with a 3″ turboback exhaust, featuring one high flow cat, should allow the turbo to spool up easier and quicker for more low end grunt.
1.) Remove the heatshield. You’ll be amazed at the amount of bolts used to hold on this simple piece of metal. There are 5 on the left side (viewing from the front of the car), one on the back, and two on the right side. After you have all the bolts removed you’re going to need some keen geometry skills to get the heat shield out of the engine bay but once you do, the downpipe to turbo connection is easily available. Once the downpipe is exposed look for the bottom heatshield. It connects to the downpipe by one bolt.
2.) Loosen the downpipe. There are only 5 bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo. They are surprisingly easy to get to. Now would also be a good time to remove the O2 sensor from the Downpipe.
3.) Disconnect the remaining hangers. It’s a good idea to use photos of the exhaust out of the car in order to point out where the hangers are in relation to the whole system. Install the new downpipe by lining up the turbo/downpipe bolts then securing the hangers. There are 2 hangers for the downpipe shown here. The front one bolts into the transmission. The second rests on a J bracket and is screwed in.