You can easily install the upgraded STI top-mount intercooler in your garage using basic tools.
1. Disconnect your battery and make sure you have all the necessary tools. You need a flat bladed screwdriver, a 10mm wrench, and a 12mm wrench. Consider the picture before you in the engine compartment. The parts you’re looking for are centered on top of the engine. You need the new intercooler, an STI Y-pipe and inlet elbow and a new gasket for the bypass or blow-off valve. You also need the STi air conditioning line bracket for the firewall.
2. Two 12mm bolts that hold the intercooler to its mounting bracket on either side of the cooler. On the passenger side, note that there’s an open hole in the bracket—this hole is there to accommodate the STI intercooler. Three 10mm bolts hold a metal tube to the front of the intercooler, and two 12mm bolts that attach the bypass valve. Underneath the intercooler on the passenger side, there’s a hose clamp that holds the Y-pipe to the turbo, and there’s another hose clamp in front that holds the intercooler to the throttle body.
3. Loosen the hose clamps first (and hopefully the one under the intercooler is oriented to make this easy) and then undo all the bolts. The intercooler should lift out and take the Y-pipe with it. Leave the bypass valve on the intake manifold—you don’t need to totally disconnect it. You might need to wiggle it loose, but don’t pull too hard.
Remove the glow in the dark release handle. Once this is done you can get to the lock. Simply twist the orange thing around, and pop the metal rod. Take a screw driver (you also might need a hammer as well) and pry that black clip off. Its really tight on there so you will need to use some force (this clip is exactly like the clip securing the brake lines).
Remove latch from trunk (optional as it may not be needed)
Remove the 2 bolts, twist yellow thing around and pop out that metal rod. You will also need to pop out the cable from that glow in the dark handle.
Remove the 4 12mm bolts that secure the trunk to the trunk arms. Beware that the STi trunk weighs a TON (something like 50+ lbs). You will also have to unplug the 3rd brake light and clip all the wire retainers off the STi trunk arm to get the trunk off.
A lot of people seem to be getting hung up on the oil return lines and coolant lines. The coolant lines and banjo bolts from the TD04ARE interchangeable if your vf39 doesn’t have them (mine didn’t). The oil return line is not and must be modified in order to fit the vf39, (mine had it). Or get a new one from the dealer. I will explain in the pictures when I get to these items.
First remove the intercooler, pretty self explanatory there are 2 bolts that it mounts to, 2 on the BPV and the hoses. Done Deal. Next the heat shield. You should be somewhere around here:
Remove the downpipe:
Then remove the bolt for the oil inlet (top of the turbo), and start removing the coolant lines (2 lines coming off the side of the turbo 1 goes up 1 goes down). Be careful as you will lose coolant during this step be prepared to either catch it under the car or plug the line:
Then remove the 3 bolts that hold the turbo to the uppipe. Loosen from the intake remove vacuum lines and anything else attached to the turbo and you should be ready to take it off. The hose that the oil return line fits into is directly under the turbo and you should probably just lift straight out. Try to leave the hose where it is and lift the line out.
Now that the turbo is off you can start swapping out the parts you need from the td04. The coolant lines from the TD04 will fit the VF39 however they are attached and too close together to fit directly on the VF39 see pic:
When removing the airbag from the steering wheel, be sure to turn the ignition switch to OFF, disconnect the ground cable from battery, and wait for more than 60 seconds prior to starting work. The airbag system is fitted with a backup power source. If the airbag system is serviced within 60 seconds after the ground cable is disconnected, it may inflate.
When storing a removed airbag module, do not place any objects on it or pile airbag modules on top of each other. If the airbag inflates for some reason when it is placed with its pad side facing downward or under any object, a serious accident may result. Do not drop the airbag modulator parts.
Please remember that if you have Cobb AccessPort, your real time map will be need to be reflashed after disconnecting the battery
2) Set the tires to straight-ahead position.
Do your best to park as straight as possible. We suggest straightening the wheel and driving forward approximately 15ft. Try having a friend help you with this.
3) Remove the airbag.
In order to remove the airbag, you will need a T30 TORX bit.
You will find the two bolts on the left and right-hand side of the steering wheel, approximately at 9 and 3 o’clock (refer to figure 1.0 in the “Reference Images” section of this installation guide).
These are lightly torque (~5 to 7.2 ft.lbs) and will not come out of the steering wheel.
Once these are loosened, you may gently remove the airbag.
You will immediately notice the airbag harness. There may be one or two plugs and one ground plug connected to the airbag. The ground is removed with another gentle pull. The main connectors, located on the center of the rear of the airbag, will have either one yellow or one yellow and one pick lock tabs. Use a small flat head to gently pry this upward. Place this yellow lock tab in a safe place (refer to figure 1.2 or 1.3 for applicable model year).
Your airbag is now ready to be removed! Please take great care in storing your airbag!
Careful cleaning of the threads/lugnuts and using hand tools (AKA NOT an impact gun!) will help prolong the life of your studs. When the day comes though, here’s how to replace the studs in the rear with stock lengthstuds. If you want to replace them with longer length studs (ARP, etc.) you will have to pull the hub entirely and buy new wheel bearings.
Things you will need:
Stock length wheel studs (As Required): NAPA has these for ~$3 a piece. Part # 641-3209
M8x1.25 bolts (2): Home Depot Racing
M8 washers (~6): Home Depot Racing
19mm Socket: Lugnuts
14mm Socket: Caliper bolts
12mm Wrench: ABS Sensor bolt
7mm Allen Key: M8x1.25 bolts
5mm Allen Key: ABS Ring bolts
Hammer: of the BFH variety, for beating on studs that have misbehaved
Telescoping Magnet Tool: Optional, but will make life much easier.
Sticking the new studs in the freezer will cause them to shrink slightly and really help you when it comes time to seat them in the hub. Throw them in the freezer before heading out to Home Depot Racing or leave ’em in overnight, just make sure those puppies are ice cold. Leave them in the freezer until you are actually ready to use them.
A limited edition of 1000 Japanese MY04 WRX STI‘s with DCCD were exported to celebrate victory in the 2003 WRC drivers’ championship. 500 were sold in Europe, Australia and South Africa as the Petter Solberg edition; the other 500 were further modified by Prodrive and sold in the UK as the WR1. They had 316 bhp (236 kW) and 309.8 ft·lbf (420.0 N·m), an incredible 0-60 mph time of only 4.25 seconds and a top speed of 155 mph (249 km/h) (electronically limited). They were equipped with Prodrive WRX STI springs, Pirelli PZero Nero tires, mesh grilles, special Ice Blue metallic paint and Prodrive PFF7 Pewter wheels. The new ECU and exhaust were not EU-homologated, so they were fitted after registering the car. The retail price was £29,995.
Second Generation Impreza WRX JDM special variants:
This car was an S-series Impreza based on the Spec C. All of the suspension and powertrain parts included STi parts from the STi part catalog. The interior included special edition yellow seats with red STi logo stitching. A smaller, lightweight AC compressor was fitted to save weight. The brake rotors were gas slotted. The wheels were STi labeled Rays Volk alloys.
This limited edition Subaru was an S-series Impreza based on the WRX STi. Again it is basically a car with all the STi parts available. It was sold with custom made 18-inch (460 mm) BBS alloys with Pirellis.
(03/98 – 08/98)
In 1998, Subaru of Japan produced a widebody, 2-door, Impreza called the 22B STi. The 22B was used to commemorate both Subaru’s 40th anniversary as well as the 3rd consecutive manufacturer’s title for Subaru in the FIA World Rally Championship. On the release of the sales, all 399 sold out from 30 minutes to 48 hours, depending on the report.The cars had the starting VIN code of GC8E2SD. Another 25 were produced for export markets – see the 22B Type UK below.
The 22B had the EJ22 engine as opposed to the regular EJ20 engine. Note: internal Subaru material states the block comes from a V3 EJ20G NOT the EJ22G as most think. Also the intake manifold and heads were from the V4 EJ20K. This means the displacement was increased from 1994 cc to 2212 cc. The block is a closed-deck design. The heads (valves, valvetrain and such) were lifted from the STi Version 4 engine. It produce 350 PS (260 kW; 350 hp) at 6000 rpm and 363 N·m (267 ft·lbf, 37.0 kgf·m) of torque at a lower engine speed of 3200 rpm. The redline was lowered from 8000 rpm to 7000 rpm. The compression is an 8.0:1. The turbocharger is an IHI RHF 5HB (the internal company usage code is VF23).
This car was given a unique color of blue and had fender flared widebody taken from the Peter Stevens designed WRC car, thus widening the width by 80 mm (3.15 inches) for a total of 1,770 mm (69.7). During assembly, a WRX Type R chassis was taken off the line. The fenders were replaced with the 22B STi fenders. The car’s curb weight is 1,270 kg (2,800 lb). The suspension is provided by Bilstein. The brakes were standard 4-piston/2-piston brakes. However, the color is red and the Subaru name cast on the brake calipers and painted white.